Industrial production of kanten (the Japanese name for agar, which translates as “cold weather” or “frozen sky”) began in Japan in the mid-19th century by natural freeze drying, a technique that simultaneously dehydrates and purifies the agar. Seaweed is first washed and boiled to extract the agar, after which the solution is filtered and placed in boxes or trays at room temperature to congeal. The jelly is then cut into slabs called namaten, which can be further processed into noodle-like strips by pushing the slabs through a press. These noodles are finally spread out in layers onto reed mats and exposed to the sun and freezing temperatures for several weeks to yield purified agar. Although this traditional way of producing kanten is disappearing, even today’s industrial-scale manufacturing of agar relies on repeated cycles of boiling, freezing, and thawing.
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The architecture
当行业进入衰退期，这种关系的复杂性会更突出：客人减少，竞争加剧，成本上升，促销更频繁，“谁能抢到生意”变成生存逻辑。与此同时，年轻一代对“夜总会”这个词本身就有距离感，更倾向于用“PR”等更体面的说法来重新包装工作内容；行业对人的吸引力下降，也意味着女性从业者的处境更不稳定。